It’s a reinterpretation of the changarro—those tiny, one-room taco spots everyone in Mexico has loyalties to—but this one’s done with the kind of precision that makes sense once you hear Alexis Ayala used to work at Pujol. He’s from the north (hence the grilled taurinos), his wife Alexis is a chilanga, and the two of them run it together. You kind of have to know it’s there, which makes it even better.